4,000 Kilometers Around the Southern Half of Madagascar
Part 1 – From Antananarivo to Morondava and the Tsingy of Bemaraha
On July 11, 2016 at two o’clock in the morning, Martin and Heidi stepped foot once again on the red island of Antananarivo. Ahead of them was a 27-day adventure with a specially adapted 4×4 Toyota Landcruiser with a driver.
Right at that moment, they knew they were in for an unforgettable journey through the unique landscapes and cultures of Madagascar.
We would like to express our heartfelt thanks to you, Klaus, for your organizational and logistical preparations and always good advice.
The adventure begins at the airport upon arrival. We realize that only half of our luggage has arrived. Fortunately, it was delivered with the next plane in the afternoon and off we went to Antsirabe. We stayed at the Hotel Chambres du Voyageur with a beautifully landscaped garden, which we unfortunately only got to enjoy on the way back.
On the 490 km long stage to Morondava, we drive through the highlands with breathtaking mountain ranges and river valleys.
The N34 road is mostly in good condition. Driving is smooth and we make good progress. Along the village streets, there is always a lively everyday hustle and bustle. The many small market stalls and the wide variety of fresh fruits often tempt us to take a short break. A cup of coffee and a piece of sweet pastry are always welcome.
From the bridges of the many rivers, you can see. Often, people wash their clothes and then spread them out on the sandbanks or on the shore to dry. Others take care of personal hygiene, while children pass the time playing games.
After about half the distance, we cross the Tsiribihina River for the first time, using a ferry, and continue without a long break until shortly before Morondava, in order to reach the famous Baobab Alley before sunset. Several kilometers before reaching the destination, we can already see these giant trees scattered along our road, lined with lush yellow-green rice fields. Upon arrival, there are already some tourists on site, eager to witness this natural wonder. It is almost impossible for me to photograph the avenue without them. That’s why I preferred to leave the track and photograph these beautiful, slender baobabs from a different perspective. Overnight in Morondava at the quiet Kimony Lodge, located a bit away from the city. Departure at 7:30 to Bekopaka, the entrance to the Tsingys of Bemaraha National Park. Tsingys von Bemaraha.
There are 235 km of sandy, then increasingly harder, poor tracks ahead of us. For many kilometers, we see areas with bushes. Blackened remnants of tree trunks stand like monuments as witnesses of large fires in between, and the further north we drive, the more smoke plumes become visible on the horizon. Before Belo sur Mer, we now drive, almost like in a corridor. In deep sand, lined with four to five meters high dense undergrowth, passing each other in oncoming traffic is hardly possible and often many locals are on the road in large groups. Not far now and we reach the
For the second time, we cross the Tsiribihina river on an adventurous ferry ride to Belo sur Tsiribihina. Along the banks, people load their canoes with goods to bring them into town. In the center of Belo, we take a short lunch break and I have the opportunity to take photos of the daily hustle and bustle and the market. The road becomes rougher and after an hour and a half, we reach the smoke clouds seen on the horizon earlier. Small fires sometimes reach up to the road. The landscape now changes more frequently from previously open areas with few bushes. We drive through grassy areas that are turning into wooded areas and increasingly have to cross small rivers that have not yet dried up. At 3 pm, we reach the last ferry over the Manambolo River, and it’s just a few kilometers to our hotel in Bekopaka.
Early in the morning, we set off for the upper entrance. Discover the Grand Tsingy in Madagascar. After a 23 km drive on a rough road, we finally reach a small parking lot, our destination, after an hour and a half. Local vendors have set up a small stand under the trees where you can buy homemade juices and various foods. Normally only the drivers take advantage of this opportunity, but I couldn’t resist trying the Wild boar with rice, and I must say, it was delicious. I would advise against using the toilets. I can handle a lot, but even I preferred to use the bushes. After putting on the provided safety gear (due to the In poor condition, please bring your own equipment!!) and a brief training session, we are ready to go on tour. After about 15 minutes, we reach the edge of a forest that extends to the Tsingy. In the distance, the white Sifakas can be seen in the trees, and in the forest, there are also Lepilemur randrianasoloi in the trees.
We take a few minutes to rest here in the cool shade of the steep rock spires, to have a snack and a drink. Suddenly, I see movement about four meters above me on the vertical rock wall. Something is climbing directly down to the bottom of a narrow gorge in a cave.
Come visit us and discover a Ring-tailed Mongoose (Galidia elegans) up close. This friendly creature seems accustomed to visitors, as it slowly approaches within a meter despite the flashlight and noise. Suddenly, another one emerges from a hole in the ground, both scavenging for food until they spot a rat with a long, bushy tail. The Mongoose quickly chase after the rat towards a narrow crevice. The chase ends with a distant squeak, and the excitement is over.
It’s time to set off. As we walk through the cool columns, we keep startling small birds that seek shade from the scorching sun on the surface. Slowly, it gets brighter and we reach the exit of this huge rock labyrinth. On the way back to the parking lot through the forest, we also see Giant Coua gigas (Silk Cuckoo), Pygmy Kingfisher, and Madagascar Kingfisher. An unforgettable experience!
Ceyx madagascariensis and many beautiful butterflies. Back at the parking lot, we immediately drive back on the very bad track to the hotel. On the second day, we spend our time relaxing and exploring the surroundings, as we decided not to visit the small Tsingy due to the extremely high entrance fees. Other tourists we spoke to even decided to stay in the hotel. I paid 250,000 Ariary for two people, one day, entrance and guide, which at the very good exchange rate we had, is about 70 EUR!
Part 2 – From the Tsingy of Bemaraha to Kirindy and Morombe
We set off early to catch the first ferry across the river. We follow the same route back until about 60 km before Morondava. A small track branches off to the east and we reach Kirindy after about 7 km in the late afternoon. I am somewhat disappointed as the camp is currently a construction site. The accommodations are
Simple and straightforward, which doesn’t bother me at all. Personally, the main reason for my visit to Kirindy is to have the opportunity to see Fossas (Cryptoprocta ferox). A guide tells me that currently up to five Fossas are hanging around the lodge. We check into our cabin and explore the surroundings. We spot some chameleons, insects, and birds. Now that the office is open, we sign up for a night hike at dusk. Before that, we decide to rest for a bit and head back to our accommodation. Passing by the restaurant, around the corner – WOW. It’s hard to believe! A large Fossa male comes out of the forest and heads straight towards us! In a single leap, it jumps onto a container filled with kitchen waste and rummages for food. With some scraps of a slaughtered chicken, the predator disappears under a hut. Barely gone, a second, slightly smaller one comes from another direction, moving quickly and also disappears under the hut. Both Fossas emerge, a brief scuffle ensues, one disappears into the forest, one back under the hut, and the whole spectacle is over. Now quickly order dinner before it’s too late. Grab your cameras and flashlights and let’s drive deeper into the forest with our car and guide. We will wander around for about an hour and a half, exploring the forest in all directions.
Unfortunately, we didn’t have much luck spotting some sleeping birds, a nocturnal large lemur, and a distant mouse lemur. On the ground, a few frogs and a small gecko.
6:00 AM, 18 degrees. It’s humid, the car windows are fogged up with thick dew drops as we prepare for the next 165 km long journey. In Morondava, we fill up the vehicle with gas and grab some snacks and water. It’s Sunday and many shops are closed here too. In front of a closed store with a slightly ajar door, we see a young man whom we ask for an open store. Luckily, he is the store owner and politely invites us in. We quickly find what we need. We stroll through the market, where we find a place for a quick lunch before heading towards Belo sur Mer, to our accommodation “Ecolodge du Manabe”.
After driving about 20 km, we cross the Morondava River. It is wide and still has water in some low spots. Our driver stops at the shore to assess the water depths and the condition of the sandy crossing. With great concentration and relatively high speed, he navigates through the riverbed to avoid getting stuck. Once on the other side, we are greeted with an open landscape, with. The landscape is dominated by low bushland, with occasional giant Baobab trees scattered throughout. Bright orange fruits of a vine plant hang like splashes of color in the bushes. The winding track comes to an end as we drive into a straight corridor of almost impenetrable bushes, 3-4 meters high.
The sandy track leads through a unique landscape of bushland and Baobab trees. Discover the beauty of Madagascar’s West Coast with our guided tours.
Part of the road is so narrow that we are forced to fold in the side mirrors, as we risk tearing them off otherwise. After about 10 km at a “crossroads,” we turn right to the west. Just like before, a track drawn as if with a ruler, but the path is blocked after 50 meters by a fallen tree trunk. Obstacles like these are not uncommon, and just before is a small path that seems to be the detour. The driver turns off. However, soon there is no way through with the large vehicle, and he gives up. Now the problem is turning around! Only now. a few meters back to a suitable spot, then complicated and time-consuming maneuvering. Finally, we made it through the thickets back to the main path until we reached the intersection. My GPS tells me that both other options lead to dead ends in small villages and there are no alternatives. We are at a loss. Suddenly, a car from the south appears and we wait to ask for directions. The friendly driver tells us to drive another half kilometer and then turn sharply to the right, that would be the way. And so it was. We then arrive in a very small village. In the village center, our path was blocked by a barricade and we had to stop. Immediately, the car was surrounded by people and the driver rolled down the window to speak with an older man. It soon became clear that we had to pay a toll to pass through the village, 5,000 Ar (1.50 EUR).
Immediately, it occurred to me that the tree trunk may not have been randomly placed over the main path. I paid, they cleared the obstacle out of the way, and after 500 meters, we were back on the main trail heading west. Another boring 10 km in this corridor followed until we reached the coast. Large, almost tree- and bush-free areas opened up, mostly covered with a very low plant (similar to samphire) in shades of green, yellow, and red.
Small, almost tiny villages began to appear along the trail again, and soon we were close to the coast.
We reach the Maharivo river. The riverbed is dry but at least 250m wide. The sand is deep and the track is mostly covered with reeds to reduce the risk of getting stuck. We drive through the riverbed swiftly without any issues, only the ascent on the other bank was steep and bumpy. Now we are close to the coast and we come across shallow areas with puddles and lakes. Various species of herons, waders, and many others search for food in them or perch in the surrounding bushes and trees. After another 25 km, a huge, barren, red and yellow landscape suddenly opens up. Pastel-colored glowing area like a pan. On the horizon, brightly white hills shine – salt mountains, the Salines of Belo sur Mer. Driving on this area is not safe because of the often soft ground, says our driver, and one must know which way to take (also depending on the season). That’s why he takes a 1.5 km longer detour along the edge on a smaller track, instead of driving through the main track in the middle of this area.
Due to recent rainfall, the ground is still not dry and hard enough to risk it. Now our destination is not far and at 3:30 pm we pass through Belo sur Mer and just under two kilometers further south lies our destination: “Ecolodge du Manabe”. We settle into our little cottage and are immediately familiarized with its features. In front of each chalet is a green, insulated box with a glass window as a. In the deck, there are two black-painted aluminum pots with lids, each holding about five liters. There is also a thermometer inside, showing 90 degrees. This is our “hot water system” for washing and showering. Sunlight is directed into the interior during the day via an adjustable reflector, heating the water in the pots, which works great as indicated by the thermometer. Cold running water is available in the chalet.
As the shadows grow longer, there is still time to explore and relax before heading out for dinner. Down at the beach, you have a magnificent view over the lagoon. In the middle of the bay, you can see brightly painted small fishing boats on the shore, right in front of the small town, and at the very end, I can make out large half-finished ship hulls; a “shipyard”. Here, using the simplest tools, traditional, large, and seaworthy ships are still being crafted.
so die besten Bilder einfangen kann. Außerdem ist es noch angenehm kühl und wir können die Fahrt genießen, bevor die Hitze des Tages einsetzt. Wir passieren kleine Dörfer, Reisfelder und immer wieder beeindruckende Landschaften. Es ist eine lange Fahrt, aber die Aussicht auf neue Abenteuer und Entdeckungen hält uns motiviert. Schließlich erreichen wir Morombe und können es kaum erwarten, die nächsten Tage hier zu erkunden. Die Reise durch Madagaskar ist voller Überraschungen und unvergesslicher Momente, die uns noch lange in Erinnerung bleiben werden. There are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard clay. Careful driving is necessary as there are also many more animals to see. People are often on their way to markets to sell vegetables, fruits, or food before sunrise, which are always good subjects for me. After about an hour, the sandy track changes to red, hard The track, which is often washed away or eroded, becomes smaller and worse. Many houses in the villages are plastered with this red clay and they literally glow in the orange sunshine. About halfway to Manja, we cross the shallow Lampaolo River and follow it on the western side for about 30 km. The track is often flooded in depressions due to the proximity of the river and the still high water table at the end of the rainy season. We pass through many small settlements and stop in a village for a short break with coffee and Mofo baolina or Mofo gasy, sweet, deep-fried balls. Of course, an attraction and immediately surrounded by curious people, because tourists are rare here and certainly would not eat or drink at such a simple and primitive “restaurant”. Across from it is a small, very well-crafted table with a beautiful and clean yellow tablecloth. On it are small boxes, on which individual blister packs are lying. I am amazed to see that they are medications and are probably being sold individually. Pills for diarrhea, malaria, painkillers, and various antibiotics, also known in Europe, are openly displayed on the table at over 30 degrees and are available for anyone to buy without a prescription.
Continuing on to Manja, where we stop for lunch, to the Mangoky River Ferry; 130 km in just under five hours of pure driving time. The track is often very rough, tough, and we barely reach an average of 27 km/h. Large Baobabs are occasionally visible, but otherwise not overly interesting. Fortunately, the ferry is on our side and is easily accessible.
It doesn’t take long for the crew, an older man and a few boys, to arrive. Our driver chats with the “captain” for a while, who then boards the ferry and returns with a large plastic bottle. He opens the tank and siphons off some bottles of diesel for the ferry. Meanwhile, more and more people gather at the dock, who have been waiting for a ride. A woman in colorful clothing sells grilled fish and asks for a piece of soap and clothing. I had collected small pieces of soap from hotels, which I gladly give to her along with a. the sparkling smiles are gratefully received. One of the guys is still scooping water from the three hulls of the ferry before we board it and off we go.
A black cloud front partially darkens the sky, fortunately moving away from us. On the other side, individual sun rays fall on. On our journey, we pass by a hill and let growing baobabs shine like guardians in a mystical, yellowish-white light. We still have 80 km ahead of us. First, we need to travel 30 km northwest along the west bank of the Mangoke River to Ambahikily, and then southwest to the coast. The landscape gradually changes again. Mighty baobabs of different types and appearances stand sporadically, looming like powerful giants in the landscape, until it transitions into proper forests.
My thoughts drift back to the well-known “Baobab Alley,” and I must say, it is nothing compared to this. I am overwhelmed and fascinated by the beauty of these baobabs. I can’t stop being amazed. We are running late and the shadows are getting longer as we approach Morombe. More and more, we see large, lush green rice fields in the soft evening light. We arrive a few minutes late for the sunset at our accommodation at Chez Katja. But we still enjoy the beautiful evening glow on the beach before taking care of our luggage and room.
